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Inside the misunderstood world of London’s Pearly Kings and Queens

Most people think Pearly Kings are relics of the Victorian east end, but they are in fact part of a living charity tradition that few people today fully understand.

The Pearly Society is a collective of figures representing London’s boroughs who wear extravagant homemade suits covered in pearly buttons to collect money for local charities in their areas.

Many Londoners mistakenly associate Pearlies with the east end. Despite cultural similarities, it is not a requirement for a Pearly King or Queen to be Cockney.

The society was founded by Henry Croft, a working-class road sweeper from North London, who drew inspiration from the outfits and community-minded culture of costermongers, or street sellers.

Chris Conlan, the Pearly King of Bromley, said: “Most people just see us wander about in buttons, but that’s not what it’s all about. 

“Our first priority is always to help people and give to charity.”

Whilst Pearly Kings and Queens traditionally join the society by birth or marriage, entry by invitation has been introduced as fewer lineages are choosing to participate.

This is in part due to the cost of living in London, where many would-be pearlies are priced out of committing to the cause due to their need to work longer hours or spend less on travel costs. 

Chris is one of the Pearly Kings who was invited to join after his longstanding commitment to charitable work, first serving as a consul to Greenwich’s Pearly Queen. 

Chris said: “Some of the older Pearlies don’t like invitation pearlies as much.

“For me, I take pride in earning my pearly status and that’s why wearing the buttoned-crown on my jacket means so much to me.”

Beyond the buttons and pageantry, Chris and his fellow Pearlies spend countless hours and their own money raising funds for local charities, covering everything from buying and maintaining their suits to paying for travel, while taking no personal profit.

Despite being on London’s streets for more than 150 years, the tradition is still widely misunderstood and is adapting to find new ways to stay relevant.

Chris said: “It is simply not enough anymore to just wear the jacket, times have changed and we now have to be in our communities through social media too.”

The fight to remain known within local communities is important to Pearlies, since those who are not will often find themselves ignored for key community events where they could fundraise. 

It is particularly important for Pearlies to be known to their local council and authorities, as this provides them with additional opportunities to serve their communities. 

Chris said: “I am very lucky that I have a great relationship with the council and they have been very supportive and continue to invite me to events.

“Some Pearlies are frozen out of local events if their councillors are not familiar with the tradition.” 

Even after more than 150 years, Pearly Kings and Queens continue to serve London’s communities, blending a rich Victorian tradition with the demands of modern life. 

For Chris and his fellow Pearlies, every button sewn and every donation collected shows that the tradition is still alive and focused on helping their communities.

You can learn more about the Pearly Tradition on their website.

Featured image credit: Chris Conlan

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